Retinaldehyde vs. HPR: A Comparison of Two Powerful Retinoids used in Private Label Skincare

In a previous article various retinoids used in Private Label Skin Care were discussed as retinoids have long been hailed as the gold standard in anti-aging skincare, thanks to their ability to promote cell turnover, boost collagen production, and improve skin texture. Among the various forms discussed retinaldehyde (often simply called retinal) and hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR) stand out as the winners for their potency and efficacy hence why we use them both in our Private Label Skin Care range. But how do they stack up against each other? This article delves into their similarities, differences, and which might be best for your skincare routine.

Understanding Retinaldehyde

Retinaldehyde is a form of vitamin A that sits just one conversion step away from retinoic acid, the active form that delivers retinoid benefits. It works by accelerating skin cell renewal, reducing fine lines, wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation, while also enhancing elasticity and firmness. Retinaldehyde is more potent than retinol, making it a step up for those seeking noticeable results without a prescription.

The main problems with Retinaldehyde is its potential to cause skin irritation and its chemical instability. We believe the best way to overcome these drawbacks is to use microencapsulated forms of Retinal. There are several options available on the market however many of these contains Polyethylene glycols and/or polypropylene glycols which are not in line with our cleanical principles. We have decided on a clean liposomal form of Retinal which has been tested and shown to possess reduced irritation compared to regular Retinal. This is the form we use in our Retinal Night Cream.

Understanding HPR (Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate)

HPR is a next-generation retinoid that doesn't require conversion to retinoic acid; it binds directly to retinoid receptors, providing anti-aging effects similar to traditional retinoids but with potentially fewer drawbacks. It targets wrinkles, uneven tone, dullness, and loss of firmness by supporting collagen synthesis and cell turnover. HPR is gentler with little to no irritation making it accessible for beginners and seasoned retinol users alike. HPR also is chemically stable unlike Retinal which is another major advantage.

We use this in our Vitamin A Night Cream.

Efficacy: How Do They Compare?

Both retinaldehyde and HPR are effective at reducing signs of aging. Retinaldehyde's proximity to retinoic acid makes it highly potent however, some sources suggest HPR may outperform retinaldehyde in wrinkle reduction and texture improvement due to its direct binding action. In vitro studies show HPR promotes greater collagen production than retinal and comparably to stronger retinoids like tretinoin.

In human skin explant testing under UV stress (to simulate photoaging), HPR delivered significantly higher Procollagen Type I production compared to Retinal:

• HPR: +237.6% (p<0.001)

• Retinaldehyde: +82.1% (p<0.001)

  
  

While epidermal thickening was comparable with both, HPR showed greater Keratin 14 uplift, supporting healthier skin renewal and proliferation. Receptor-level testing further confirms HPR has stronger binding efficiency than Retinaldehyde.

Overall, it appears HPR seems to outperform Retinal however Retinal is still a popular choice for many especially if it is microencapsulated.

Irritation and Safety Profile

Irritation is a common concern with retinoids, and here HPR has a clear advantage. Retinaldehyde can cause dryness, redness, or peeling, similar to retinol, especially for sensitive skin. Microencapsulation helps reduce the incidence of these side effects but it may still occur in sensitive skin.iIn contrast, HPR is reported to be gentler, with studies indicating it's up to 10 times less irritating than tretinoin and less so than retinaldehyde. In our experience/testing even using it on sensitive skin has caused no reactions so is a clear winner in this department.

Stability and Formulation Considerations

Stability affects how well a retinoid performs over time. Retinaldehyde is more stable than retinol but can degrade with exposure to light and air, and thus ideally requires microencapsulation for long term chemical stability however this process also increases the cost.

Again HPR shines as the winner in this department also being inherently more stable and less prone to breakdown, making it ideal for long-term use in various formulations.

Who Should Choose Which?

- Opt for Retinaldehyde if: You're experienced with retinoids, have tolerant skin, and want potent anti-aging effects. It's suitable for advanced users addressing deep wrinkles or uneven tone.

- Opt for HPR if: You want the best. You have sensitive skin, are new to retinoids, or prefer a potent, stable, low-irritation option. It's recommended for beginners or those seeking consistent results.

Both retinaldehyde and HPR are excellent retinoids, but your choice depends on skin tolerance and goals. Retinaldehyde offers potency and popularity while the still seemingly unknown HPR provides potent, stable and yet gentle efficacy—making skincare more accessible and effective for all. Our Private Label Skin Care range offers both options to ensure freedom of choice. Log into our members only online shop to view details about these potent anti-aging products.