Comparing Retinoids used in Private Label Skin Care

Retinoids, derivatives of vitamin A, are powerhouse ingredients used in cosmetics hence an important ingredient to consider in Private Label Skincare. They are celebrated for their ability to promote cell turnover, boost collagen production, and address concerns like acne, hyperpigmentation, and aging. The most common retinoids in skincare are retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate, with new generation retinoids such as Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) making an appearance. Each varies in potency, stability, and skin compatibility, so choosing the right one to use is very important. This article compares the differences of these retinoids based on their efficacy, irritation potential, and application in cosmetics.

Retinyl Palmitate: Retinyl palmitate is an ester of retinoic acid, the least potent retinoid. It requires a three step enzymatic conversion (retinyl palmitate converts to retinol, then to retinaldehyde, and finally to retinoic acid) in the skin to become active retinoic acid, which limits its efficacy. Found in many over-the-counter products, it’s gentle and well-tolerated, making it ideal for beginners or sensitive skin. Retinyl palmitate offers only mild benefits, such as improved skin texture and hydration, but its effects on wrinkles or acne are less pronounced. Its stability in formulations makes it a popular choice for cheaper moisturizers, but results are very subtle compared to stronger retinoids. For this reason we do not recommend nor use this form of Vitamin A in our Private Label Skin care range as better more effective options are available.

Retinol: Retinol, a step closer to retinoic acid, is more potent than retinyl palmitate but still requires a two step conversion to retinaldehyde and then another into retinoic acid. Widely used in anti-aging and acne treatments, retinol is effective at reducing fine lines, unclogging pores, and evening skin tone. Concentrations typically range from 0.1% to 1%, with higher strengths delivering faster results but increasing irritation risk. The EU has recently limited retinols use to 0.3% due to safety concerns. Retinol’s chemical instability and potential for causing skin irritation are the main downsides of its use thus why gradual introduction is advised to minimize redness or peeling. There are better options available so we do not use retinol in our range of private label skin care.

Retinaldehyde: Retinaldehyde (or retinal) is one step away from retinoic acid, making it more potent than retinol, some say about 10 times more potent. Its direct conversion to retinoic acid enhances its bioactivity, making it a favorite in high-performance serums. It delivers faster results in reducing hyperpigmentation, smoothing wrinkles, and treating acne. Found in concentrations typically of 0.05% to 0.1%, retinaldehyde, like retinol, also has the potential for causing skin irritation but less so and thus usually requires a slow integration into skin care routines to avoid such reactions. The main disadvantage of retinaldehyde is its chemically instability. If not formulated correctly it will decompose rapidly making the product ineffective. Microencapsulation of retinal helps overcome these problems of instability and irritation. The problem with some microencapsulated forms is the added ingredients do not adhere to cleanical principles however we have recently found a clean form of liposomal Retinal that has all the advantages of Retinal without the disadvantages and no nasties!

Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR): HPR, a new generation retinoid ester, is often marketed as “granactive retinoid” for its direct binding to retinoid receptors without any conversion. This unique mechanism offers retinoic acid-like benefits with significantly less irritation, making HPR a game-changer for sensitive skin. Typically available in concentrations of 0.05% to 0.2%, HPR improves skin texture, reduces fine lines, and addresses acne with minimal side effects. Its stability and compatibility with other actives, like vitamin C, enhance its versatility in formulations. HPR’s gentle yet effective profile positions it as a modern superior alternative to traditional retinoids.

Considerations: Retinyl palmitate is the gentlest but least effective so not recommended if your after visible results. Retinol offers a balance of efficacy and accessibility but may irritate sensitive skin and is chemically unstable. With better options available we chose to not use it. Retinaldehyde provides faster, stronger results with low-moderate irritation but remains unstable if not formulated correctly. Clean microencapsuled forms of Retinal overcome these issues and is one we recommend and use in our private label range for visible results. HPR delivers high efficacy with minimal discomfort and is highly stable. It is for these reasons we also chose to use the HPR form of Vitamin A in our Private Label Skin Care range so you have a choice of two of the most effective forms of Vitamin A for your brand.

See link for more discussion on comparing Retinaldehyde with HPR.